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Luxury goods go mass market

 
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PostPosted: 23    Post subject: Luxury goods go mass market

Luxury goods go mass market
Back in the late 1980s, the Prada backpack made out of black or tobaccobrown parachute fabric trimmed in leather became the bag for many wouldbe fashionistas. It was hip, modern, lightweight and, at $450, expensive, but not as expensive as the stratospherically priced bags made by Hermes and Chanel. According to fashion reporter Dana Thomas, that Prada backpack was also emblem of the radical change that luxury was undergoing at the time: the shift from small family businesses of beautifully handcrafted goods to global corporations selling to the middle market a shift from exclusivity to accessibility, from an emphasis on tradition and quality to an emphasis on growth and branding and profits. Traveling from French perfume laboratories to Las Vegas shopping malls to assemblyline factories in China, she traces the evolving face of the luxury goods business, from design through marketing to showroom sales.
She gives us some sharply observed profiles of figures such as Miuccia Prada, who was a Communist with a doctorate in political science when she took over her family small luxury goods business in 1978, and business tycoon Bernard Arnault, who relentlessly built LVMH into a luxury monolith with dozens of brands (including Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Dior) sold around the world.
Thomas peppers her narrative with amusing asides about everything from how orange became Hermes signature color because it was the only color widely available during World War II to the moneysaving benefits of rawedge cutting,[url=http://www.floware.fr]michael kors paris[/url], which has been marketed to the public as a cuttingedge, avantgarde innovation.
But her focus remains on how a business that once catered to the wealthy elite has gone massmarket and the effects that democratization has had on the way ordinary people shop today, as conspicuous consumption and wretched excess have spread around the world. Labels, once discreetly stitched into couture clothes, have become logos adorning everything from baseball hats to supersized gold chains. Perfumes, once dreamed up by designers with an idea about a particular scent, are now concocted from briefs written by marketing executives brandishing polls and surveys and sales figures.
With globalization, Paris and New York are no longer exclusive luxury meccas. Thomas notes that a 690,000squarefoot luxury mall called Crocus City (featuring 180 boutiques, including Armani, Pucci and Versace) is flourishing outside Moscow, and that a group of highend boutiques will be part of a luxury complex called Legation Quarter, scheduled to open in Tiananmen Square later this year.
Highprofile luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Herm and Cartier were founded in the 18th or 19th centuries by artisans dedicated to creating beautiful, finely made wares for the royal court in France and later, with the fall of the monarchy, for European aristocrats and prominent American families. Luxury remained, writes Thomas, domain of the wealthy and the famous until Youthquake of the 1960s pulled down social barriers and overthrew elitism. It would remain out of style a new and financially powerful demographic the unmarried female executive emerged in the 1980s. both disposable income and creditcard debt soared in industrialized nations, the middle class became the target of luxury vendors, who poured money into provocative advertising campaigns and courted movie stars and celebrities as style icons. In order to maximize profits, many corporations looked for ways to cut corners: They began to use cheaper materials, outsource production to developing nations (while falsely claiming that their goods were made in Western Europe) and replace hand craftsmanship with assemblyline production. Classic goods meant to last for years gave way, increasingly, to trendy items with a short shelf life; cheaper lines (featuring lowerpriced items such as Tshirts and cosmetic cases) were introduced as well.
luxury industry has changed the way people dress, she writes. has realigned our economic class system. It has changed the way we interact with others. It has become part of our social fabric. To achieve this, it has sacrificed its integrity, undermined its products, tarnished its history and hoodwinked its consumers. In order to make luxury tycoons have stripped away all that has made it special.


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